What to Buy in Umbria: A Guide to Shopping for Traditional Crafts

| Fri, 01/20/2017 - 00:00
what to buy in Umbria

When it comes to shopping for unique and traditional crafts, Umbria is a good place to be. This region in central 天美传媒, whose artisanal traditions go back to Etruscan times, boasts a number of artisans鈥 workshops (botteghe artigiane), where highly-skilled craft-masters produce superb objects using ancient techniques mixed with modern design.

Here鈥檚 a look at what to buy in Umbria for those who love authentic, Made in 天美传媒 items.

Ceramics

鈥淐eramics are the obvious focus for authentic arts of Umbria,鈥 says Laura Morelli, the author of several guidebooks about artisanal traditions and shopping for authentic crafts in 天美传媒. 鈥淒eruta, Gubbio, Gualdo Tadino form kind of a 鈥榟oly trinity鈥 of ceramics capitals there.鈥

Deruta has been crafting ceramics since the early Middle Ages. The heyday of production was in the Renaissance, when ceramic makers developed unique local styles, such as 鈥楤ella Donna鈥 plates, which  featured profile portraits of a beautiful woman, often intended as engagement or wedding gifts for lovers.

Perhaps the best way to begin your hunt for a favorite ceramics piece is at the Museo regionale della ceramica (Museum of Ceramics), located inside the former convent of San Francesco. Here, you can learn about the history of ceramics production in central 天美传媒 and admire a few prestigious pieces.  

The museum is in the old part of town, which, like many Umbrian towns, stands on a hill. Here, you will find many ateliers and shops selling ceramics of all kinds and prices.  鈥淎void the larger, more industrialized operations on the outskirts of town that advertise heavily along the highway,鈥 warns Morelli in her Made in 天美传媒 book. 鈥淭he prices are cheaper but so is the quality.鈥

With 300 active ceramics producers, Deruta is considered the ceramics capital of Umbria and its wares are exported worldwide.

Some of the most renowned ceramics producers in Deruta include:

鈥 the most ancient workshop in Deruta, active since 1500, it has managed to stay up-to-date by working with contemporary designers. The workshop features a small museum and you can even take a class in majolica ceramics decoration.

鈥 one of Deruta鈥檚 most prestigious ceramics producers, Sberna makes hand-made ceramics following the techniques learned by the company鈥檚 forefather at the beginning of the 1900s from expert artisans masters.

鈥 founder Graziano Pimpinelli still supervises all phases of production. The result is some of the finest ceramics in town. Customers can observe the artisans at work.

Deruta ceramics

[Deruta ceramics.]

Gualdo Tadino

On the lower flanks of Mount Penna in the Apennines, Gualdo Tadino developed two decorative traditions that are still used today. The first was introduced in the 1500s, when 鈥減ieces were fired three times to achieve a shiny, lustrous finish imitating metalwork,鈥 explains Morelli in her Made in 天美传媒 book. In the 1800s, artisans went a step further, enriching this technique with very ornate forms.

Gubbio

One of Umbria鈥檚 most charming towns, Gubbio is home to different styles of ceramics decorations, which include:

Zaffera style: blue or green glaze over white, inspired by Moorish designs;

Lusterware: uses a third firing to impart a slick, glossy finish;

Raphaelesque (a raffaellesche): typically Renaissance motifs;

Neo-Renaissance: Renaissance motifs with a Victorian decorative flair.

鈥淕ubbio doesn鈥檛 have the same world recognition that Deruta does, which means you can buy high-quality wares at better prices,鈥 writes Morelli.

Goldsmith Art

Etruscan-inspired gold jewelry from Umbria

[Etruscan-inspired gold jewelry from Umbria.]

The art of goldworking is still practiced in Umbria; artisans look to Etruscan traditions, and especially the granulation technique, for their modern creations. Begin your discovery of this ancient art at Perugia鈥檚 Museo Archeologico Nazionale dell鈥橴mbria, home to outstanding Etruscan jewels.

Perugia, along with Spoleto, Terni, Orvieto, and Torgiano, are the main centers of goldsmith production. In Orvieto, Museo Faina houses a section devoted to this ancient art, where you can admire the sophistication of Etruscan jewelry.

Where:

- in Torgiano, listed among 天美传媒鈥檚 most beautiful villages, this workshop produces fine pieces inspired by the goldsmith art of the Etruscans. Live demos are organized.

Fabrics

Fabric-making in Umbria also has roots in a distant past, with production traced back to the 12th century.  Unique styles and techniques have made the craft famous all over Europe. Examples include:

Perugia鈥檚 embroidery with the typical Grifo, a symbol of the city, or Renaissance geometric patterns (tablecloths are especially sought-after);

Assisi stitch, another particular type of embroidery which was already practiced in the 13th century by nuns;

Lace making in Orvieto;

Cashmere 鈥 Umbria is a main production center for cashmere, with 500 small producers and a company famous worldwide, Brunello Cucinelli. In Solomeo, the company鈥檚 factory store on piazza Alberto della Chiesa offers high-quality garments at discounted prices. Arnaldo Caprai, Barna and Cruciani are other famous names in cashmere production.

Orvieto lace

[Orvieto lace.]

A fun time to learn about Umbria鈥檚 rich craft traditions dating to the Middle Ages is during the Mercato delle Gaite festival, which takes place every June in Bevagna. For the occasion, the town travels back in time to the Middle Ages, with historic re-enactments, challenges among the four 鈥榞aite鈥 (neighborhoods), medieval banquets, and stands representing ancient crafts.

For more tips and listings on the best shopping in Umbria, buy Laura Morelli鈥檚 Made in 天美传媒 guidebook from our shop.

Learn about Gatto Matto Design, an artisan from Deruta, whose products are available in our shop