This Pordenone Campaign Pushes Back Against Provincialism

| Mon, 01/06/2025 - 09:27
Palazzo del Comune of Pordenone / Photo: BearFotos via Shutterstock
Palazzo del Comune of Pordenone / Photo: BearFotos via Shutterstock

Editor's note: Pordenone was just declared Italian Capital of Culture for 2027 on March 12, 2025. To celebrate, we are revisiting this article on the campaign, which offers a special preview of what you'll find in the full Friuli Venezia Giulia issue of Bellissimo, our digital magazine that all receive quarterly. 

The article appears below as it originally ran. 


鈥淚鈥檓 in love with your city. Friuli is a great place to stay!鈥

鈥淭hanks. But don鈥檛 you ever call this place Friuli again.鈥

Oof. In Trieste, the capital of Friuli Venezia Giulia, I鈥檝e witnessed some version of this exchange between visitors and locals many times. This is usually the moment when shock washes over the innocent visitor, who鈥檚 often sipping an Aperol Spritz with the stunning Piazza d鈥橧talia as their backdrop. What follows is a request for clarification from the local, but the standard response is brief: 鈥淭rieste is not Friuli. Trieste is Trieste. And that鈥檚 it.鈥

Similar patterns play out in Udine, where locals joke about the fact that 鈥淭rieste鈥檚 problem is its citizens.鈥 It鈥檚 a long-running, slow-to-die rivalry 鈥 rooted in politics, history and, of course, soccer.

There鈥檚 a name for the phenomenon, which isn鈥檛 unique to Friuli Venezia Giulia; throughout the country, it鈥檚 more ubiquitous than pizza. Let me introduce you to campanilismo. The term comes from campanile (meaning the bell tower of the local parish church), and refers to a provincial attachment to one鈥檚 birthplace.

It鈥檚 less about loving affection and more about short-sighted superiority complexes. 天美传媒鈥檚 geographical and cultural fragmentation means there鈥檚 a great deal of friction between provinces, cities and even neighborhoods. But in Pordenone, a small Friulian city and administrative area campaigning for Italian Capital of Culture status in 2027, local pompousness is out and team-player attitudes are in.

Change begins with the unexpected 

Poderone cafe
Spillimbergo is poised to become a cultural hub / Photo: lincegialla via Shutterstock

 

Picture the industrious yet isolated region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, tucked between sea and mountains in the easternmost corner of 天美传媒; then picture its bordering land, the relatively forward-looking Veneto. Blend them and you have Pordenone 鈥 where, after a long series of dialogues with institutions, town halls and listening sessions with citizens, a local committee is competing for 鈧1 million in coveted national funding to carry out more than 50 projects aimed at bolstering cultural tourism and improving quality of life for citizens; 鈥1000 days of culture鈥 is the city鈥檚 promise to visitors and residents. As one of 17 candidates for the title, Pordenone is campaigning under the slogan Pordenone 2027. City that Surprises. It alludes to the fact that Pordenone and the surrounding areas are known for industry and not widely regarded as 鈥渁rt cities鈥 or travel destinations, despite their many offerings, which span film festivals to centuries-strong mosaic traditions.

Mosaics and more in Pordenone

Spillimbergo
Frescoes on the castle of Spilimbergo / Photo: Denis Scarpante via Shutterstock

Pordenone鈥檚 projects are all rooted in regional traditions, but the standout programs are those that thoughtfully merge past and present. Spilimbergo, a small municipality of just under 12,000 people about a 30-minute drive from Pordenone proper, is set to enact one of the most visually memorable projects. Surface: From Mosaics to Street Art marries urban renewal with contemporary street art and centuries-old artistic and craft traditions, taking inspiration from similar projects that have run in Ljubljana, Berlin and Florence. Scholars and artists of the Mosaic School of Spilimbergo will construct three open-air mosaics, working alongside young Italian street artists like Alice Pasquini and Pixel Pancho.

Back in downtown Pordenone, meanwhile, in a setting dominated by ancient arts and archaeological sites, the International Museum of Comic Art is the first of its kind in 天美传媒. It hosts a vast collection of comics and graphic novels, and during Pordenone鈥檚 potential year as Capital of Culture, it will host 天美传媒鈥檚 first exhibition on the renowned manga animator and illustrator Hayao Miyazaki.

Every concept or art piece brought to life for Pordenone鈥檚 banner year will be bound to stay. The historical Piazza della Motta, for example, has been upgraded to open-air 鈥渦rban theatre鈥 and will host concerts and performances. Pordenone鈥檚 artistic inclinations may not be well known, but they鈥檝e got deep roots: Ancient Venetian merchants are known to have referred to this center as the 鈥減ainted city,鈥 due to the frescoed palaces along what is today Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Walking tours organized by the regional tourist board, PromoTurismo FVG, are set to be expanded during the Capital year and remain long-term.

Friuli鈥檚 rising star

The Italian Capital of Culture initiative began in 2014 under then-Culture Minister Dario Franceschini, inspired by the European Capital of Culture program launched nearly three decades prior. Campaigns for these titles are now commonplace and can feel indistinguishable from each other. But Friulian candidates have stood out for their teamwork; Pordenone has taken an inclusive approach involving all of the towns in the province. It鈥檚 a smaller-scale example of the attitude adopted by Pordenone鈥檚 Friulian neighbor Gorizia and Nova Gorica (in Slovenia, former Yugoslavian territory); relations between the two were once hostile, but in 2025 they will share the European Capital of Culture title, united under an unprecedented theme, 鈥淏orderless.鈥

Attention on Friuli Venezia Giulia is set to increase whether Pordenone wins or not. But the region isn鈥檛 after its 15 minutes; it鈥檚 seeking to build its future.

鈥淚 think Pordenone's cultural scene will benefit from this collective effort for years to come, even if we don鈥檛 get the title,鈥 resident Fiorenza Spuria, a graphic design teacher and translator, told me on a recent visit. 鈥淥ur beguiling borghi will be put in the spotlight, too.鈥

What I鈥檝e observed in my interactions with locals in Pordenone is a willingness to weave new networks; there鈥檚 a conspicuous absence of competitive feeling among these borghi. There鈥檚 no need for the fairytale-like waterfalls of Polcenigo to overshadow Poffabro鈥檚 rural soul, or for Sacile鈥檚 Venetian elegance to outshine the medieval atmosphere of Valvasone鈥檚 alleys.

Beyond Friuli鈥檚 borders, Pordenone has even given its endorsement to L鈥橝quila, Italian Capital of Culture 2026, in Abruzzo, taking the cause of cooperation outside the region. The mutual support is promising and may carry wider implications for Italian tourism as more communities move toward collaboration and away from competition 鈥 rejecting the need to prove who has the best dishes, the sparkliest seaside or the finest art treasures. In such a fragmented country, creating community momentum around culture is tougher than it seems, and Pordenone鈥檚 commitment to building paths between 鈥渂ell towers鈥 offers a for the future. 

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